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Camper Service And Repair East Irvine

Published Jun 10, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair East Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing knobs tightened up down.) I didn't see anything wrong, however pulled back both awning simply to be secure. Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the rainfall gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is glided right into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Service And Repair East Irvine. I'm thinking the repair work will entail replacing that whole size of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing bigger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure prior to we recognized the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket setting up is fine, yet the front one is broken at the bottom and completely appeared at the top, to ensure that the leading assistance arm no more affixes to the camper. We are in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Even the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Camper Service And Repair East Irvine).

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like guidance as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe also get us via the summer season - without having to place in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd instead discover a fast and reliable service. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I require to remove the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise notice how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires ahead off first prior to the last steps of this message (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't actually need to do this action up until the awning was on the ground but I observed this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the mounting bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing brace on the right. Removing the placing bracket of the awning. As soon as the placing braces are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is primarily just like a normal piece of aluminum roof covering edge trim molding other than that near the bottom edge there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar requires to be removed. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, after that you would not need to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Currently it's simply like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is put under the rail) and after that just pull it out.

You might have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Simply yank it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me then decrease it the ground little by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just slides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two set screws were removed I can move the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

The following point holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once more I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. To raise that, the corner molding need to be removed.

I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I might turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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At that factor I switched from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the very same means, and curved it sidewards simply enough so that I can raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which suggests I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim items all the way down. Yet we'll reach that later. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

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It's just popping through the staples. The side of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the leading edge. Same bargain again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting but glue at this moment) and then I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners in all holding back the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scraped up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing started to draw up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I could see the steel framing beneath. Then the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the pieces together. I do not know how specifically they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roofing system was shedding stamina and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the very first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

It's just standing out via the staples. The side of the roof decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Same bargain again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much stifling yet glue at this moment) and afterwards I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Camper Service And Repair East Irvine. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started meticulously peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding back the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to draw up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the pieces together. I do not recognize exactly how specifically they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing ply are joined with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roof was losing stamina and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the very first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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