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Camper Service Center Orange

Published May 31, 25
10 min read

Camper Repair And Service Orange, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Camper Service Center Orange. I'm presuming the repair will require replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of larger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We've obtained damaged brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we understood the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is great. The rear bracket assembly is great, yet the front one is fractured at the bottom and completely broken through on top, to make sure that the top support arm no more affixes to the camper. We are in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio sensible? Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier gray metal - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wishing to ensure we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it needs to be completely replaced? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was new back then. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations regarding just how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - maybe even obtain us through the summer - without needing to place in a new awning! We remain in a very significant bind because we have actually a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a fast and effective solution. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I need to get rid of the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roof decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll also observe exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off initially before the last actions of this blog post (revealing the front and back sides of the roof covering decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't really have to do this step till the awning was on the ground but I saw this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, just pull back on the bracket. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning installing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded corner at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning. When the installing brackets are detached, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Keep in mind, the awning rail is generally similar to a regular item of light weight aluminum roofing side trim molding other than that near the bottom side there is a round track with a port in it.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roof covering like me, then you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Just yank it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) HEADS UP! Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire point unexpectedly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs away from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. When the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little collection screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just slides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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When the 2 set screws were eliminated I can move the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once again I just tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might end up eliminating it later if I need to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the corner molding need to be removed.

Then I could turn the trim mold off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened the other corner trim in the same method, and bent it sideways just enough so that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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The side of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roofing system substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down but glue at this moment) and after that I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I began carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts in all holding down the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not understand how specifically they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roofing system was shedding strength and stiffness as I pulled up the top layer, so cracked it off prior to the very first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which suggests I'll end removing those corner trim items all the method down. Yet we'll get to that later on. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

The edge of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down yet adhesive at this moment) and then I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Camper Service Center Orange. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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Camper Awning Replacement Orange, CAPop Up Camper Roof Repair Orange, CA


I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to bring up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Currently I can see the steel framework beneath. Then the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the pieces together. I do not understand exactly how specifically they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are joined with each other at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly realized the roof covering was shedding stamina and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the very first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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