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Camper Repair And Service Fullerton

Published Jun 07, 25
11 min read

Camper Trailer Repair Fullerton, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually retreated from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Camper Repair And Service Fullerton. I'm assuming the repair will require replacing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using larger scale screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually got damaged brackets on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, major repair work, and so on, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we understood the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out given that it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime system, and so on, is fine. The back bracket setting up is fine, but the front one is fractured at the bottom and entirely appeared on top, to make sure that the leading support arm no more affixes to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio practical? Even the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier grey steel - it's the grey bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply intending to see to it we're not being taken in out of our desperation.

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like suggestions as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe also get us via the summertime - without having to place in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd instead locate a quick and efficient service. Anybody? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Restoration Collection!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof covering trim molding from three sides of the roof. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to remove the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to establish on the ground.

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You'll likewise observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs ahead off initially prior to the final actions of this post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof covering decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning mounting brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this step up until the awning was on the ground yet I observed this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting bracket on the. Eliminating the placing bracket of the awning. When the placing brackets are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is essentially much like a regular item of light weight aluminum roof covering side trim molding except that at the lower edge there is a round track with a port in it.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Here's an appearance at the round channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing system like me, after that you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You may have to reduce completion with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Then just tug it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite promptly.

Once the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point suddenly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that lower it the ground bit by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning got on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply glides straight off the canvas by sliding the entire rail away.

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Once both established screws were eliminated I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action prior to I can eliminate the old roof outdoor decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I pried them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some corroded staples stifling. I pried them out as best I could. The next point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so again I simply pried up the plastic insert and took out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later if I require to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the edge molding have to be removed.

I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might turn that item of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the very same method, and curved it sidewards simply enough so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which implies I'll end eliminating those corner trim items all the method down besides. We'll get to that later. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's just popping through the staples. The edge of the roofing system decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roofing system substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side. Exact same bargain once again. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting but adhesive now) and then I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I began carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no fasteners in any way holding back the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scuffed up a few of the broken bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to pull up cleanly unscathed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I might see the steel framing beneath. Then the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I do not recognize exactly how specifically they managed to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The items of roof ply are joined together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roof was shedding toughness and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the initial seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I found a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which suggests I'll end removing those corner trim items all the way down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The edge of the roofing decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling but glue at this point) and after that I can tug out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Camper Repair And Service Fullerton. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

Once I scratched up a few of the broken bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to draw up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I might see the steel framework underneath. But after that the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't know exactly how precisely they took care of to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are signed up with with each other at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roof was losing strength and stiffness as I drew up the top layer, so split it off right before the initial joint. A close of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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