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Rv Camper Repair Foothill Ranch

Published Jun 09, 25
11 min read

Camper Trailer Repair Foothill Ranch, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking handles tightened up down.) I didn't see anything wrong, but retracted both awning simply to be safe. Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had actually been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually retreated from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Rv Camper Repair Foothill Ranch. I'm assuming the repair work will entail changing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of larger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We've obtained busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repair services, and so on, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience before we recognized the axle was in problem. We have not had the awning out because it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime device, etc, is great. The back bracket assembly is fine, yet the front one is cracked at the base and totally broken through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no longer fastens to the camper.

Even the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (Rv Camper Repair Foothill Ranch).

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The RV is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as recommendations as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even get us via the summer season - without having to put in a brand name new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to discover a quick and efficient option. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I need to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roof covering decking, I require to remove the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be gotten rid of to set on the ground.

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You'll also see how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off first prior to the final steps of this article (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof covering decking).

Here's an information of exactly how the awning mounting braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this action till the awning got on the ground yet I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the ideal end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical edge at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing bracket on the. Getting rid of the installing brace of the awning.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. Here's a check out the circular channel at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, after that you would not need to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's similar to eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to reduce completion with an utility knife if it is put under the rail) and after that simply yank it out.

You may have to cut the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Just yank it out! Once the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty promptly.

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber under.) DIRECTS! As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire point instantly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roof that was secured under it. As soon as you start pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly break complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then lower it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just slides right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 set screws were eliminated I could move the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

The following point holding down the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I just tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might end up eliminating it later if I require to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. To raise that, the edge molding need to be eliminated.

Then I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I changed from a scrape to a tight 6 broad putty knife. This piece cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. Then I changed from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the very same way, and curved it sideways just sufficient so that I could lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which suggests I'll end eliminating those corner trim pieces all the means down. We'll obtain to that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's just standing out through the staples. Finally the edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Same offer once more. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting but glue at this point) and afterwards I might pull out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Currently I can draw out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing began to pull up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the items with each other. I do not recognize just how precisely they handled to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are signed up with together at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly realized the roofing system was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off simply before the initial joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which indicates I'll end eliminating those edge trim items all the means down. But we'll reach that later. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's just popping with the staples. Finally the edge of the roofing system decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Exact same offer again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down yet adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Rv Camper Repair Foothill Ranch. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point began to draw up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the assemble. I don't recognize just how precisely they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly understood the roof covering was shedding toughness and rigidity as I drew up the top layer, so cracked it off prior to the initial seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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