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Camper Repair And Service Foothill Ranch

Published Jun 03, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Repair And Service Foothill Ranch. I'm presuming the repair service will require changing that entire length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing larger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, major repair work, etc, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure before we realized the axle was in trouble. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, etc, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is great, but the front one is broken near the bottom and entirely appeared at the top, so that the top assistance arm no longer fastens to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound reasonable? Even the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier grey metal - it's the grey bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to make sure we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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The Motor home is a 2007, yet we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly also get us with the summer season - without having to place in a brand name new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I would certainly instead discover a fast and efficient option. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roofing system decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to set on the ground.

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You'll also observe exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the final actions of this post (revealing the front and back sides of the roof decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not really have to do this action until the awning got on the ground but I observed this established screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the RV awning installing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the. Eliminating the installing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing system like me, after that you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You may need to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out! As soon as the vinyl screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty rapidly.

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. When I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was secured under it. As soon as you start pulling the awning rail away it will instantly snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground bit by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back against the camper. Once the awning got on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply moves straight off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two established screws were removed I could move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action prior to I can eliminate the old roofing system outdoor decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples holding it down. I pried them out as best I could. The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I just pried up the vinyl insert and took out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up eliminating it later if I need to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass shift. The roof covering decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change must be raised. To raise that, the corner molding should be eliminated.

Then I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I changed from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened the various other edge trim in the very same way, and bent it sidewards simply enough so that I could raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which suggests I'll finish eliminating those corner trim pieces right down after all. We'll obtain to that later. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply popping with the staples. The side of the roof covering outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge. Same offer again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down however adhesive at this factor) and after that I might pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. I started thoroughly peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts in all holding down the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scuffed up some of the busted bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to draw up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I might see the steel framing under. Then the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that joins the items together. I do not know exactly how exactly they handled to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roof covering was losing strength and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so split it off right before the first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which indicates I'll end removing those edge trim pieces all the means down after all. However we'll obtain to that later. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

It's just popping with the staples. Finally the edge of the roofing outdoor decking is revealed at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side. Very same deal again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down however adhesive at this moment) and then I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Camper Repair And Service Foothill Ranch. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

When I scratched up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole point began to draw up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that signs up with the pieces with each other. I do not recognize how exactly they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are signed up with together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roofing system was shedding stamina and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so fractured it off right before the first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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