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Diamond Bar Camper Repair Near Me

Published May 26, 25
11 min read

Camper Services Diamond Bar, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is glided into has drawn away from the wall and turned a bit - Diamond Bar Camper Repair Near Me. I'm thinking the fixing will require replacing that entire length of rain gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing bigger scale screws to replace those that were drawn out

We have actually obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, major repair work, etc, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we realized the axle was in trouble. We have not had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is fine, yet the front one is fractured near the bottom and completely broken through at the top, to ensure that the top support arm no more fastens to the camper. We are in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound sensible? Even the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a larger grey steel - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is damaged it needs to be completely changed? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as guidance as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even get us via the summertime - without having to place in a brand name new awning! We remain in an extremely significant bind due to the fact that we have a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or postponed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a fast and effective solution. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roof decking, I need to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground. First I drew these out. Pushing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also notice just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the final actions of this article (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Here's an information of how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this action up until the awning was on the ground but I saw this established screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the ideal end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the bracket. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the placing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing brace on the. Removing the installing bracket of the awning. When the placing braces are detached, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is essentially similar to a routine piece of aluminum roof covering side trim molding except that at the bottom side there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Here's a check out the round channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roof like me, then you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may need to cut completion with an utility blade if it is covered under. Just yank it out! As soon as the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite promptly.

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire point suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Simply know it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was fastened under it. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me then reduce it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the right end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply slides straight off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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Once the two established screws were eliminated I could glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The next point holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once more I simply pried up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later if I need to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the corner molding must be eliminated.

Then I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I can swing that item of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched over from a scrape to a stiff 6 vast putty knife. This piece broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that point I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. Then I loosened up the other corner trim similarly, and bent it sidewards just sufficient to make sure that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The side of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down however adhesive now) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I began very carefully peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scratched up some of the broken bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to pull up cleanly unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Currently I could see the steel framing below. Then the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the pieces together. I do not know just how specifically they handled to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are joined with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roofing was losing stamina and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the very first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which suggests I'll finish getting rid of those corner trim pieces completely down nevertheless. Yet we'll obtain to that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

It's simply standing out through the staples. Lastly the side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Very same offer once again. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down however adhesive at this factor) and afterwards I might tug out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Diamond Bar Camper Repair Near Me. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scuffed up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to draw up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize just how specifically they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly realized the roof covering was losing strength and stiffness as I drew up the top layer, so fractured it off simply before the first joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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