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Camper Repair Shop Brea

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

Camper Services Brea, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing knobs tightened down.) I didn't see anything awry, but pulled back both awning simply to be safe. The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the gutter had been pulled away from the wall surface (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid right into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Camper Repair Shop Brea. I'm presuming the fixing will involve changing that entire length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using bigger scale screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant repair services, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure prior to we understood the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime system, and so on, is great. The rear bracket setting up is fine, however the front one is cracked at the base and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no longer attaches to the camper.

Does this audio practical? Even the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier grey metal - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wishing to make sure we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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The Motor home is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly such as guidance as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe also get us with the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I would certainly rather find a quick and reliable option. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Remodelling Series!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roof covering. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to remove the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to establish on the ground. I pulled these out. Pushing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also discover just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the last actions of this post (exposing the front and back sides of the roof decking).

Below's an information of exactly how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this step until the awning was on the ground but I discovered this set screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the installing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting bracket on the. Removing the installing brace of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing system like me, after that you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Simply yank it out!

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber underneath.) HEADS UP! Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was fastened under it. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little set screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just moves right off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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When both established screws were removed I can move the whole awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can get rid of the old roof covering outdoor decking is to expose completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some corroded staples stifling. I tore them out as ideal I could. The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once more I just pried up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass shift. The roofing outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass transition need to be raised. To lift that, the corner molding need to be gotten rid of.

I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened the various other edge trim in the exact same way, and curved it laterally just sufficient so that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which indicates I'll end removing those edge trim pieces all the means down. We'll obtain to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

Camper Repair Shop Brea, CA

It's just standing out via the staples. Lastly the side of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roofing substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the leading edge. Very same deal once more. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down but adhesive at this moment) and then I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up several of the busted bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The whole thing began to pull up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I could see the steel framework below. Then the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not know exactly how exactly they managed to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roof covering was losing toughness and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the initial seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which implies I'll finish removing those edge trim items all the means down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

The side of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting but glue now) and afterwards I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Camper Repair Shop Brea. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts in any way holding back the roofing system plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scuffed up several of the damaged little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The whole thing started to bring up easily unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Currently I could see the steel framework beneath. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not recognize just how precisely they handled to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The pieces of roof ply are joined together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roof was losing toughness and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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